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8月14日

克羅地亞雜記

我們去克羅地亞參加好友微與卡的婚禮, 我在八年前認識微,她出生克羅地亞,但在德國長大,我們一見如故,共同度過許多美好的時光。微離開新加玻後, 我們又見了幾次面, 每次都在不同的國家, 每次都很开心,最後那次是她來挪威參加我的婚禮。

 

微與卡相戀多年,兩人長年在外地工作,所有的假期都用來探望對方,異國之戀維持不易,難得兩人珍惜對方,有情人終將成眷屬, 我非常期待參加她的婚禮。

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下午三點有個小聚餐, 樂隊演唱民歌,現場一片喜氣洋洋。

 

下午五點鍾,在教堂舉行婚禮,在荘嚴的教堂裏, 微與卡彼此交換誓言,定下終生之約,我們眼睛濕濕。

 

傍晚七點鍾,晚宴開始, 衣香鬓影。

克羅地亞人喜歡跳舞, 美食不斷送,樂隊唱不停,人們舞不休,直至淩晨五點鍾,宴會才結束,我們累得東歪西倒。

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我們乘車去split, 那裏沿海,是通往許多小島的停留站,我們租了一間小公寓,每天在舊皇宮裏亂走,昔日的皇宮, 路面鋪著大理石, 現在變成許多餐館和小商店, ,往日的輝煌只能想象。

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一個淩晨,我被吵醒,樓下的公園,有一對男女在吵架,用的是我們聽不懂的語言, 女方一直大喊大叫,一連串的話語,又急又快,男方輕聲細語,企圖安撫她,她不肯,不停哭叫,吵醒了整棟樓,有人大聲喊:‘噓 , 女方還是一連串的話語,並沒有停下來,然後, 男方好象走開了, 女方大聲哭,大喊:‘Tikida, Tikida ,過了一會兒,也咚咚咚的跑開了。

 

「後來,我看當地的電視節目字幕,發現‘Tikida Never ’」

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我們乘船去vis,又在那裏租了一間小公寓,連廚房,還有一個向海的陽台。

 

我們什麽也不做,坐在陽台看海,海上船帆點點,蔚藍的海洋,明媚的陽光。一坐就是半天,心境一片平和。

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Vis是一個清靜的小島, 島的北面是一個魚村,島內種植了許多葡萄,這裏氣候溫和,感覺上比split涼爽, 感覺上比較悠閑。

 

我們在附近的一家小餐館用餐,他們先用炭火烤魚,然後加調味,再淋上橄榄油和蒜頭碎, 十分美味。

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我們乘船回去split,又租了一間小公寓,房東太太很友善,煮了一鍋湯招呼我們, 小公寓在碼頭附近,十分方便。我因身體不適, 在室內休息, 阿沙自己一個人亂逛, 我則看了許多電視節目, 笑說學会不少當地話。

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這裏許多人家都種了葡萄,架上的葡萄一串串地懸挂著, 東一穗,西一串的點綴著綠色的園子。許多人家也自制葡萄酒。

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split 的最後一天,我們在一家叫 Cod Jazz 的餐館吃晚餐,阿沙一心要找一家‘好吃 ’的,我則不想東奔西跑,坐在公園裏等待,阿沙幾經詢問,才在在舊皇宮外面偏僻的小巷裏,找到這家餐館。

 

地點雖然偏僻,卻坐滿了幕名而來的食客,我們猶疑不決,不能決定吃什麽魚,侍應生捧來一盤魚讓我們挑選。前菜和魚都很美味, 我們飽醉而歸。

7月10日

里加游记

我們在夜晚抵達裏加,從周圍聽到的口音,我們猜測有許多來自挪威、德國和蘇格蘭的遊客。拉脫維亞的少女很美麗, 這是第一個印象。我們預定的旅店在古城, 城裏有許多酒吧,夜未央, 衣裝性感的少女在跳鋼管舞。

旅店的宣傳介紹說是精品酒店,以爲名爲基度山的精品酒店會裝飾得像一座堡壘, 酒店在狹窄的小路盡頭,裏頭的裝飾談不上精致,勝在地點靠近市中心, 酒店也算新淨整潔。

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我們坐在教堂裏聽管風琴演奏, 古老的教堂, 坐滿了來自四面八方的人。教堂肅穆莊嚴, 牆上的彩繪玻璃色彩斑斓, 使教堂顯得壯麗與神秘。古老的教堂, 見證了多少人世間的聚散離合, 婚禮的喜悅、葬禮的悲傷, 都在這裏上演。如果牆會說話, 許多故事說不盡

我看著四周的人,年輕的、年老的, 有些閉上眼睛欣賞音樂,有些擡頭觀望上面的穹窿,大家心裏在想什麽?原本荘嚴神聖的地方, 現在是好奇遊客的觀光場所。

「管風琴制于己于1844 ,至當時是世界上最大的管風琴,6718管子。」

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 毫無目地的在古城裏散步是一種悠閑, 靜谧的街頭, 沒有熙熙攘攘的感覺, 沿著舊城鋪滿鵝卵石的街道漫步, 兩旁的歐式樓房、城堡各具特色, 裏加城有全歐最好的Art Nouveau建築。這代表一棵樹, 孔雀站在樹上開屏, 上面兩片綠色代表葉子。

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喜歡坐在廣場上的露天咖啡座,望著穿梭來往的行人,享受和煦陽光揮灑在身上,消磨一個午後的愜意。面無表情的、面帶微笑的,也許是旅人, 也許不是, 時間一般流逝。 ………………………………………………………………………………………………......................................................

在購物中心的一間店裏,我驚見另一個女人,看起來年約四十,我在驚訝過後,擠出一個微笑,我看到她眼裏,有相同的驚訝,然而,她卻木著一張臉,吝啬一個微笑,她外表分明是華裔,雖然她染了一頭金發。

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一踏出古城,感覺像兩個世界,擁擠汙穢的街道, 人們的神色衣飾也不同,擦身而過的男人,被毆打似黑青著一個眼圈,忽然覺得,一點安全感也没有。 ……………………………………………………………………………………………….......................................................

在回家的飛機上,我們都累了,五天四夜的假期,轉眼就過,心裏盼望快點到家,人到中年就會這樣嗎?出門幾天就惦家。

世界很大,另一個城市另一個風景, 見多了也不外如此。 ………………………………………………………………………………………………......................................................

From Internet

裏加(Riga)是拉脫維亞(Latvia)的首都, 位於東北歐,西鄰波羅的海。(Baltic Sea)

裏加像賭盤上的籌碼,屢換主人,先後爲波蘭,瑞典,和俄國統治,但市中心被德裔商人控制著,直至二十世紀中期。

裏加曆盡滄桑。最後一次波浪是一九九四年金融崩潰,幾間大銀行倒閉,市民投資變爲廢紙,裏加想成爲波羅的海的蘇黎世 Zurich 美夢,頓成泡影。裏加畢竟是堅強的,摔暸交立即爬起來。通貨膨脹控制得很成功。貨幣穩定居東歐各國之冠。生活程度不讓北歐諸國。唯一隱憂是處理城市過半的俄羅斯人。裏加是灑脫的。

拉脫維亞政府將本來殘破不堪的裏加舊城樓房洗刷幹淨,刷上鮮豔的油漆,追尋每一幢樓房的來曆。然後他們可以名正言順地跨過俄羅斯、重寫曆史——裏加是在13世紀初由日耳曼教士建城,1282年參加漢薩商業同盟,是區域貿易中心﹔18世紀初雖被俄羅斯占領,但主事的仍然是德國商人和貴族﹔裏加城有全歐最好的“新藝術”(Art Nouveau19世紀末至20世紀初的藝術流派,由英國開始)建築。

5月10日

海角天涯

幾年前在淡貝爾時,朋友帶我去一家位于海邊的餐廳用餐, 餐廳在頂樓緩緩旋轉,在進餐的同時,窗外的風景在不知不覺中更換。

當時是秋天, 海面上一只帆船也沒有, 幾只海鳥盤繞在灰色的天空中,平靜得好像一絲風也沒有, 一望無際的海天連成一片,我想到海角天涯,嘗試著想解釋給身邊的友人了解,絞盡腦汁也只能說到是世界的盡頭,心裏有種欲說不出的惆怅。

記得有一部電影叫天涯海角,英文翻譯是‘ Lost and found, 人們對天涯海角懷著浪漫的情懷,把愛情與天涯海角聯想在一起,愛人不見了,去天涯海角尋找。失戀了, 去天涯海角流浪。表達愛情的決心,跟隨戀人到天涯海角。

天涯海角在那裏, 天涯海角指偏僻或相距遙遠的地方。

天涯海角其實在心中。

5月6日

A day at Suomenlinna

We were in Helsinki over the Labour Day Holiday. This is my second visit to Finland. I have been told Helsinki is Finland’s most cosmopolitan mix, due in part to the combination of Swedish, Russian and international influences. 

My friend Mikko and his girlfriend came from Tampere to meet us. It is really nice to see them again. They said they are tourist like us, for this is the second time they came to Helsinki. It’s strange but this is not hard to imagine, well, I have not been to our world famous Night Safari until 10 years later. I know it will still be there.

We spent a day in Suomenlinna, the inhabited sea fortress built on six islands. The Finish guide who speaks with British accent is really good. The wintry islands come to life on a guided walking tour, secrets behind the bastion wall were revealed, the rugged life of the fortress builders as well as the flourishing social life and entertainments of the officers of Viapori (Another name of Suomenlinna) were told.

I feel that I could almost visualize the fortress’s energetic life of the days of Swedish and Russian rule vividly. I have not thought before that military architecture could be beautiful.

The senses of abandonment and wilderness vaguely remind me of Angkor Wat. The architecture at some places reminds me of Stockholm. I have few words to describe how I feel. This is an extract from Keki N. Daruwalla’s poem.

Abandoned by the gulls we land at Viapori,
Sveaborg, Suoinenlinna, call it what you will.
All the names roll well along the tongue.
The sun is still warm against the skin
though a biggish cloud is darkening to the south.
I go through a museum, traverse a bridge
and come up against children
sliding down a cannon.
Climbing a shoulder of rock I find
the coast littered with them, cannon
after cannon trained against the sea.

They lived here, soldiers, eight thousand of them,
idling away and gambling maybe,
picking up pine-cones for their samovars,
spray in their faces, salt in their eyes,
looking out for the enemy.
A century of waiting
as the hourglass fills and the field-glass hazes.
A century gone, looking for mast and sail
upon a wave-crest,
and a Viking beard or a pirate eye-patch.

What were these cast-iron cannons waiting for?
The Russian or the Swedish foe?

 

3月27日

无常

朋友告訴我,我們在尼泊爾的背伕過世了,我無言! 

印象中的他人很溫和, 有很璨爛的笑容。後來聽說他結婚生子, 最後在科威特工作, 仲介人說他在當地心脏病發身亡。 

一個二十多歲的小夥子, 看起來也很健康, 就這麽突然過世了!  

世事無常!

2月2日

Elephant in the street

This is a common sight in Thailand. Very often, you see them in the night. The Thai elephant men and his elephant walking around tourist infested area, trying to sell fruits to the tourist. Most people like elephant and many would not mind buying some food for them.

My first encounter with elephant in the street was in Kao San Road, Bangkok. I was so excited I went up and stroked the elephant, little did I realized what I have done.

As days went by, the excitement subsided. I am still delighted to see an elephant but something inside told me this is wrong. I have decided not to buy food to feed them anymore.

Wouldn’t it be better to see them in nature? Is it better to take an elephant ride in the forest? Has elephants come to city or is it man who has taken away the forest?

 

1月9日

Big Shop of Horror

When we signed up at the cookery school, I asked the girl who works there where does the local go shopping to.

‘For household décor?’ she asked,     

‘Yes’, I said.         

‘Normally I go to Living Space’, she said.          

And so we went to this gigantic shopping mall

Index Living Mall is in Chiang Mai Business Park on the Chiang Mai-Lampang Superhighway (next to Carrefour). It has over 20000 square meters of floor space.

K called it the Big Shop of Horror. There were more Salesperson in the shop than customer, and they are not too eager to serve. We have nothing against the shop. Why did we travel so far way to go to another big shopping mall?

1月7日

Shopping in Nimmanhaeminn

West side of town, towards Chiang Mai University, you will find this great little area.

Nimmanhaemin feels vaguely SoHo-ish, there are many small chic décor shops as well as famous shops like Gerard Collection, Ayodhya, Fai Ngam, Wits collection, DongDee Studio and Paradise. 

There are so many perfect gift buying shops in this quaint little shaded area of the city, we bought all our presents there, there are too many to choose from. The problem is they are so nice I do not want to give them away.

11月10日

Colourful Nepal

I received an email from S whom I have met in Nepal some years ago. She is going to Singapore and wants to meet up with me.

I took out my photo album and indulged. In my memories, Nepal is full of smell and color and life.